Katahdin Winter Ascent
The remote location and arctic environment of Katahdin make this one of the most rewarding winter alpine ascents in New England. Reaching the summit of Katahdin at any time of year is an accomplishment but in the winter it holds just a little more magic and a lot less people. Our climb begins with a half-day, uphill snowshoe or hike into the base of the mountain where we will camp. Here, your guides will teach and review skills relating to winter camping and winter mountain travel. We start the climb early the next morning and return in time to travel back to the trailhead by early evening. This trip is physically and mentally demanding and while it requires no previous winter climbing or camping experience, familiarity with winter camping and travel can increase your chances of a rewarding trip.The trip will be led by Registered Maine Guides who, more importantly, are experienced with winter mountaineering and trained in avalanche assessment and wilderness medicine.
Dates and Tuition
2027 Katahdin Winter Ascent Dates
| Date | Days |
|---|---|
| January 9-10, 2027 | Sat–Sun |
January 23–24, 2027 | Sat–Sun |
February 6-7, 2027 | Sat–Sun |
February 20-21, 2027 | Sat–Sun |
March 6-7, 2027 | Sat–Sun |
March 20–21, 2027 | Sat–Sun |
Mar 27–28, 2027 | Sat–Sun |
Private trip rates vary depending on group size and objective. Inquire or call 207 288 8186 for more information. For most private trips that follow a two day format similar to our open enrollment courses, the rates would be the following:
1 Guide:1 Client – 900 per person
1 Guide:2 Clients – 700 per person
1 Guide:3 Clients – 600 per person
1 Guide:4 Clients – 500 per person
1 Guide:5 Clients – 450 per person
Have a group, club, or organization or interested in a private trip? Contact us to learn more about trips by private arrangement.
- Technical gear such as microspikes, crampons, ice axe, double boots, snowshoes.
- Meals: Delicious dinner (day 1), breakfast (day 2), and a post-climb snack. Guests must bring their own mess kit and mug.
- Participants must supply their own winter sleeping bag and pad (rental available)
- Baxter State Park camping and guiding fees
- Professionally guided ascent by Registered Maine Guide with specialized winter alpine and avalanche training
- Ratio: maximum of 5 clients/guide (unless otherwise noted). Maximum group of 10 participants.
- All group and emergency gear provided
- Personal gear
- Lunch (day 1) and trail snacks/snack lunch for day 2
- Transportation to/from Abol Bridge trailhead. Carpooling suggested
- Headlamp for travel around camp and nights on trail
- Guide gratuities
2 days / 1 night
The 5 mile trek into the park to reach our campsite includes towing a sled containing personal and potentially group gear.
Participants must be capable of hiking or snowshoeing for the duration of a full day with limited breaks.
- Depending on conditions, the travel up katahdin can range from rock scrambles, snow slopes, and icy plateaus.
Our summit day involves 14 miles of travel in a single day over variable terrain, with elevation gain of +~3,940 feet, -~4,680 feet carrying a pack.
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Specific Info
Be one of the few who reach the top of “The Great One” in winter. This trip is for winter enthusiasts who are seeking the challenge of Katahdin in winter. Katahdin is New England’s most challenging winter ascent. You can expect the same weather as Mount Washington – cold temperatures, strong winds, frequent snowfall, and low visibility make Katahdin a serious but extremely rewarding endeavor.
Day 1:
- Meet at 9:00 am at Acadia Mountain Guides / Alpenglow Adventure Sports office at 753 Stillwater Ave, Bangor, ME.
- Go over equipment, boot fitting, pack gear and leave for Abol Bridge parking lot.
- Snowshoe, hike, or ski to Abol Campground – 5.5 miles. We will boot-pack, snowshoe or ski to reach the campground.
- Relax in camp with options to learn winter camping and mountaineering skills.
Review ascent plan. Dinner and sleep.
Day 2:
- Up early for a hearty breakfast and an alpine start for the summit.
- Approximately 6 hours (weather permitting) will be allotted to ascend. In most conditions, this is ample time to reach the summit.
- Descend back to camp for soup and drink, pack and begin the snowshoe, hike, or ski back to the Abol Bridge parking lot.
Objectives: The primary objective of this trip is to attempt to reach the summit of Katahdin. Along the way guides will share tidbits of their mountain wisdom on a variety of topics largely dependent on the needs of the day. Likely subjects include:
- Preparing and dressing for extreme cold
- Personal gear preparation and packing.
- Packing and towing a sled.
- Key navigation and route planning skills
- Preventing / caring for hypothermia and frostbite
- Pacing, travel techniques – use technical techniques
- Basics of interpreting weather
- Principles of winter camping
Pre-Requisites: Participants must be capable of skiing or snowshoeing 14 miles in a day with a 30 pound pack, with about 4000 ft of overall elevation gain.
Participants must also possess appropriate clothing to stay warm and dry on cold, windy, and wet winter days while both moving and stationary. This includes the need for extra winter layers beyond what you wear while moving.
Personal Equipment
Any gear you may need can be purchased ahead of the course from our gear store – Alpenglow Adventure Sports – where you get a 25% off purchases made prior to the course and up to a week later as well as a 15% discount off MSRP for life!!! Purchases may be made in-store or online. Alpenglow will also price match any in-stock inventory if you find a better deal on the web for the same item. Simply send a link when you are ready to order to shop@alpenglowgear.com.
PERSONAL CLOTHING CHECKLIST
Please dress in layers and it is very important that you pack as lightly and compactly as possible.
Footwear – Double mountaineering boots
- Sock liners and/or vapor barrier sock liner gloves
- Heavy wool or synthetic insulating socks
- Extra liner gloves
- Long sleeve base layer shirts
- Long underwear
Insulating Layer – recommended material: any type of fleece such as Polartec or wool, not cotton.
- Winter hat covering your whole head
- Balaclava – full-face covering
- Medium weight jacket/vest
- Extra insulating socks
- Warm mittens with waterproof shell over mitts
- Extra inner mittens
- Warm ski like gloves
- Insulating pants with side zip or good quality softshell pants ideally with an integrated gaiter
- Down or synthetic fill booties for use in camp (optional)
Shell Layer – recommended materials: waterproof/breathable fabric such as Gore-tex, eVent, etc.
- Ski goggles or sunglasses with side protection
- Expedition weight hooded jacket (down or synthetic)
- Waterproof / breathable shell to large enough to cover Expedition jacket
- Shell pants (full-length side zips useful for venting)
- Gaiters (if no built-in pant gaiter)
PERSONAL EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST if you need rental gear be sure to reserve it well in advance!
- Lunch Snacks
- Personal lightweight Sol style bivvy sac or heavy-duty plastic bag
- Headlamp with spare batteries
- Unbreakable bowl, insulated cup, & spoon
- Personal toiletries, sunscreen, & lip balm
- 2 wide-mouthed, water bottles one may be a thermos
- Large, sturdy pack approximately 40L your pack should be capable of fitting your personal gear in addition to any rental items such as sleeping bags, they are bulky!
- 2-4 nylon stuff sacks to sort and organize gear
- Day pack approximately 30 – 35L capacity (rental available)
- -20-degree sleeping bag (rental available)
- EVA 1/2” foam full-length ground pad (rental available)
- EVA 1/4” foam pad 3/4 length or ThermaRest ground pad (rental available)
- Snowshoes in good condition (provided if necessary). Touring skis with guide approval
- Adjustable Ski poles (optional, provided if needed)
- Mountaineering ice axe (provided if needed)
- Crampons (provided if needed)
- Climbing helmet (provided if needed)
- Avalanche equipment (provided if needed)
Pre-trip Preparation and Resources
Fitness is important on this trip. We recommend a regular routine of walking, running, or cross country skiing in weeks leading up to the trip. Even better if you can do these activities with a light pack on to better simulate mountain travel.
Recommended text:
NOLS Winter Camping. John Gookin. 2005 or similar book.
- We will eat well. A hearty dinner is provided on day 1 along with breakfast on day 2. We will provide electrolytic drinks, cocoa, and tea.
- You are responsible for lunch snacks (eaten in the ascent)
- Please let us know if you have any food allergies or requests. We will do our best to accommodate various food requests and preferences.
- We will be staying in three sided open lean-tos.
Can the mountain be climbed in a single day?
Yes, but only by an extremely fit team with a very early alpine start. This is about a 20 mile round trip day in winter conditions and we do not recommend it for most people. The two day trip is a significant challenge for most people.
Can we get snowmobiled in to Abol Campground? This service is available for an extra fee on privately arranged ascents. It is not available on open enrollment trips. Early morning snowmobile access does open the possibility of a one day ascent for private parties.
Staying Connected: Cell service is not usually available in this area – especially at camp. You will probably be able to send a picture from above tree line depending on your carrier, AT&T has service on the Tableland.
Emergency Communications: AMG guides carry cell phones, VHF radios, and InReach devices. We have direct communication with park rangers if needed for an emergency.
Medical Care: While all AMG guides are certified Wilderness First Responders or above. Our Katahdin guides also carry injectable medications to treat pain and anxiety associated with traumatic injuries.
What medications do the guides carry? In addition to a well stocked medical kit and the following
medications are carried:
Aspirin (cardiac and pain)
Acetaminophen (pain and fever)
Ibuprofen (pain, inflammation)
Epinephrine (anaphylaxis)
Ketamine (severe pain and sedation)
Lidocaine 1% (anesthetic for wound cleaning)
Opthalmic antibiotic
Immodium (diarrhea), Bismuth Salicylate, Zofran (GI upset)
Nasal decongestant
What if a group member is unable make the ascent? All participants should understand that this is group trip – essentially a mini open enrollment expedition. We want to afford each participant the opportunity to reach the summit. However, if a person(s) is unable to continue it will be the guide’s decision as to how to proceed with regard to the rest of the group. Per our commercial use agreement with Baxter State Park our options are:
- Entire group turns around. This is more likely if there is a single guide on the trip.
- Client(s) is left in safe place for maximum of 90 minutes and group returns to descend together. This is only an option in reasonable weather and when close to summit and communication can be maintained.
- Client(s) descends with second guide while remainder of group continues toward summit. No more than five clients should be with a single guide.
- Client(s) returns on own to camp and MUST WAIT at camp until group returns. This should only be utilized if well below tree line, trail is easily followed and each party has communication option.
- If a client decides at the campground that they don’t want to attempt the climb it will be the guide’s decision as to whether client should or should not return to trailhead on their own.
General Info
Enjoying the outdoors necessitates a certain degree of risk-taking. You are participating in this trip and entering the winter backcountry environment at your own risk. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While such accidents are rare, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. Our guides draw upon solid outdoor education coupled with extensive experience to manage significant hazards inherent to mountain travel. Some of the hazards that can lead to injury or death associated with this trip include but are not limited to extreme weather, demanding physical travel, avalanches, vehicle transportation, ice fall, and falls or collisions while skiing or snowboarding. Please be sure that you are fully aware of such risks. It is our goal to interpret the environmental, situational, and group variables and to make educated decisions to minimize dangers to you while at the same time providing an enjoyable and memorable experience.
Ultimately, it is our responsibility to minimize various hazards through the application of good judgment gained from a foundation of education and experience. In extreme cases, this may come at the expense of our objective.
Self-reliance in the face of adversity is expected on the part of the wilderness traveler entering the wilderness. Rescue is not automatic, and definite care may be hours or days away. For all practical purposes, our party is alone and must depend upon our own resources for self-rescue and be equipped for an extended emergency. Cellular phones and radios should not be relied upon in an emergency.
Finally, this is a group trip and good expedition behavior is critical. Participants are asked to stay with the group until everyone has safely exited the backcountry.
Baxter State Park Rescue: “Although it is the policy of Baxter State Park to attempt to assist those in need, a rescue effort on the mountain or in the park backcountry should not be expected. Search and rescue operations are conducted on a discretionary basis. The level and urgency of the response is determined by field personnel based on their evaluation of the situation. A rescue will be initiated only when necessary and when within the reasonable technical ability of available personnel and provides rescuers with a reasonable margin of safety. A helicopter rescue is risky and will only be used when medical or technical demands warrant it. Rescue is not automatic. For all practical purposes, a party is alone and must depend upon its own resources for self-rescue and be equipped for an extended emergency.”
Full payment is required for registration. Registration deadline is 14 days before the start of trip in order to allow time to send in reservations to Baxter State Park by BSP deadline.
When you book a course with Acadia Mountain Guides, you agree to our cancellation policy. Please realize that if your travel does not go according to plan in any way and for any reason, we are unable to provide credits or refunds outside of what is described below. We strongly recommend that you purchase trip insurance to protect your activity purchase against unforeseeable circumstances, which include but are not limited to:
- The anticipation of Inclement Weather
- Flight and Travel Delays and Conditions
- Personal or work schedule changes
- Injury or illness of self or family member
Inclement travel weather is to be expected at this time of year. Snow is what we want. Please adjust your travel plans to accommodate weather and travel conditions. In the event of weather that would jeopardize our ability to travel to and from the park we will reach out to you and discuss options.
We will not run the trip if temperatures are lower than minus twenty (-20) degrees fahrenheit. For this decision, we will reference the NOAA forecast positioned at the Millinocket Municipal Airport at a time one week out from the start date of the trip.
In some cases we may offer a trip still to those who are intersted to participate at their own discretion if we feel the same itinerary can be accomplished.
Tipping is never expected but always greatly appreciated. Like many in service industries, instructors and guides supplement their income with tips generated from satisfied clients.
Of course our goal is to reach the summit. We will make every reasonable effort to reach the summit, however, extreme weather, avalanche conditions, inadequate personal fitness, difficult terrain, or park weather / travel closures may make it impossible to achieve our desired summit.
A minimum of three (3) participants are needed to run this program and there is a maximum of 5 per guide with a maximum of ten (10) clients total. The decision to run the program will be made 2-3 weeks prior to the start date. In the case of low registration, you will have the options of joining another trip, receiving a refund or possibly paying an additional amount to allow the trip to run with low numbers.
Are you part of a college organization, ski club, etc.? We are happy to schedule a customized course for organizations, small groups, and individuals through New England and Eastern Canada. Of course, if you would like to schedule a course or trip in Iceland, Colorado, or Japan, etc. we would be very pleased to work with you.
Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School is accredited through the American Mountain Guide Association and the Professional Climbing Instructor Association. Acadia Mountain Guides actively supports furthering their guide’s development throughout their career. That means
our guides are constantly taking steps to progress their skills and will provide you with an exceptional experience. AMG is also a proponent of helping clients reach their goals, whether its having an epic day in the mountains or gaining skills to get into other terrain, Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School can get you there!
A History of
Leading the way…
Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School is the preeminent frontrunner in climbing instruction and guiding in Acadia and across Maine. Since 1994 we have specialized in designing customized experiences or training for you, your family, your group or company.
PCIA Single Pitch Climbing Instructor | AMGA Single Pitch Instructor | AIARE Level II | Registered Maine Guide | B.S. in Earth Science and Climate Change
AMGA ACCREDITED
• Since 1994 •
AMGCS is one of 32 AMGA accredited programs in the US and was one of the earliest to pursue and achieve accreditation. AMGCS is the only climbing school in Maine to remain continuously AMGA accredited. We have had one or more AMGA rock guides on staff each year since 1994.
PCIA Accredited
• Since 2007 •
AMGCS has the distinction of also being accredited to the highest standards of the Professional Climbing Instructors Association. The PCIA requires all staff to be individually trained and certified.
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