Be one of the few who reach the top of “The Great One” in winter. This trip is for winter enthusiasts who are seeking the challenge of Katahdin in winter. Katahdin is New England’s most challenging winter ascent. You can expect the same weather as Mount Washington – cold temperatures, strong winds, frequent snowfall, and low visibility make Katahdin a serious but extremely rewarding endeavor.

• Meet at 9:00 am at Acadia Mountain Guides / Alpenglow Adventure Sports office at 92 Main St. in Orono.
  
• Go over equipment, boot fitting, pack gear and leave for Abol Bridge.
  
• Snowshoe or ski to Abol Campground – 5.5 miles. We will boot-pack, snowshoe or ski to reach the campground. Participant who have backcountry / off trail ski touring experience may use skis if approved by the guide.
• Relax in camp with options to learn basic skills.
  
• Review ascent plan. Dinner and sleep.

Day 2   Up early for hearty breakfast and a 7:00 am departure for summit.

Approximately 8 hours (weather permitting) will be allotted to ascent. In most conditions, this is ample time to reach the summit.

Descend back to camp for soup and drink, pack and begin the snowshoe or ski back to Abol Bridge. 

The primary objective of this trip is to attempt to reach the summit of Katahdin. Along the way guides will share tidbits of their mountain wisdom on a variety of topics largely dependent on the needs of the day. Likely subjects include:

• Preparing and dressing for extreme cold
• Personal gear preparation and packing. Towing a sled.
• Key navigation and route planning skills
• Preventing / caring for hypothermia and frostbite
• Pacing, travel techniques – use of crampons, ice axe
• Basics of interpreting weather
• Principles of winter camping
  

Participants must be capable of hiking, skiing, or snowshoeing 12 miles in a single day over variable terrain, with elevation gain of +~3,940 feet, -~4,680 feet carrying a 30 pound pack.

Participants must also possess appropriate clothing to stay warm and dry on cold and windy winter days while both moving and stationary.

Personal Equipment 

Any gear you may need can be purchased ahead of the course from our gear store – Alpenglow Adventure Sports – where you get a 20% off purchases made prior to the course and up to a week later as well as a 15% discount off MSRP for life!!!  Purchases may be made in-store or online. Alpenglow will also price match any in-stock inventory if you find a better deal on the web for the same item. Simply send a link when you are ready to order to shop@alpenglowgear.com.

PERSONAL CLOTHING CHECKLIST 

Please dress in layers and it is very important that you pack as lightly and compactly as possible.

Footwear – Double mountaineering boots

• Sock liners and/or vapor barrier sock liner gloves
• Heavy wool or synthetic insulating socks
• Extra liner gloves
• Long sleeve base layer shirts
  
• Long underwear

 Insulating Layer – recommended material: any type of fleece such as Polartec or wool, not cotton.

• Winter hat covering your whole head
• Balaclava – full-face covering
• Medium weight jacket/vest
• Extra insulating socks
• Warm mittens with waterproof shell over mitts
  
• Extra inner mittens
• Warm ski like gloves
• Insulating pants with side zip or good quality softshell pants ideally with an integrated gaiter
• Down or synthetic fill booties for use in camp (optional)
  

Shell Layer – recommended materials: waterproof/breathable fabric such as Gore-tex, eVent, etc.

• Ski goggles or sunglasses with side protection
• Expedition weight hooded jacket (down or synthetic)
• Waterproof / breathable shell to large enough to cover Expedition jacket
• Shell pants (full-length side zips useful for venting)
• Gaiters (if no built-in pant gaiter)
  

PERSONAL EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST if you need rental gear be sure to reserve it well in advance!

•  Lunch Snacks
• Personal lightweight Sol style bivvy sac or heavy-duty plastic bag
• Headlamp with spare batteries
• Unbreakable bowl, insulated cup, & spoon
• Personal toiletries, sunscreen, & lip balm
• 2 Insulated, wide-mouthed, water bottles or thermos
• Large, sturdy pack approximately 40L (rentals available) your pack should be capable of fitting your personal gear in addition to any rental items such as sleeping bags, they are bulky!
• 2-4 nylon stuff sacks to sort and organize gear
• Day pack approximately 30 – 35L capacity (rental available)
• -20-degree sleeping bag (rental available)
• EVA 1/2” foam full-length ground pad (rental available)
• EVA 1/4” foam pad 3/4 length or ThermaRest ground pad (rental available)
  
• Snowshoes in good condition (provided if necessary). Touring skis with guide approval
  
• Adjustable Ski poles (optional, provided if needed)
• Mountaineering ice axe (provided if needed)
• Crampons  (provided if needed)
• Climbing helmet (provided if needed)
• Avalanche equipment (provided if needed)

Pre-trip Preparation and Resources

Fitness is important on this trip. We recommend a regular routine of walking, running or cross country skiing in weeks leading up to the trip. Even better if you can do these activities with a light pack.

Recommended text: 

NOLS Winter Camping. John Gookin. 2005 or similar book.

Getting There:
Meet at 92 Maine St. in Orono, ME. Located just off of Interstate 95. If you are traveling on I-95, take exit 191 (Kelley Road). Go east on Kelley Road (right turn if coming from Bangor or left turn if coming from the north). Go approximately 1 mile to a T intersection with red light. Turn left and go approximately 1 mile. Alpenglow Adventure Sports is at 92 Main St. – a large green house/building. If you pass the fire station, you have gone too far.

After reviewing gear, we will travel to Abol Bridge, west of Millinocket, ME.

• We will eat well. A hearty dinner is provided on day 1 along with breakfast on day 2. We will provide electrolytic drinks, cocoa, and tea. 
• You are responsible for lunch snacks (eaten in the ascent) 
• Please let us know if you have any food allergies or requests. We will do our best to accommodate various food requests and preferences.
• We will be staying in three sided open lean-tos.

Can the mountain be climbed in a single day?
Yes, but only by an extremely fit team with a very early alpine start. This is about a 20 mile round trip day in winter conditions and we do not recommend it for most people. The two day trip is a significant challenge for most people.

Can we get snowmobiled in to Abol Campground? This service is available for an extra fee on privately arranged ascents. It is not available on open enrollment trips. Early morning snowmobile access does open the possibility of a one day ascent for private parties. 

Staying Connected: Cell service is not usually available in this area – especially at camp. You will probably be able to send a picture from above tree line depending on your carrier, AT&T has service on the Tableland.

Emergency Communications: AMG guides carry cell phones, VHF radios, and InReach devices. We have direct communication with park rangers if needed for an emergency.

Medical Care: While all AMG guides are certified Wilderness First Responders or above. Our Katahdin guides also carry injectable medications to treat pain and anxiety associated with traumatic injuries.

What medications do the guides carry?  In addition to a well stocked medical kit and the following
medications are carried:

Aspirin (cardiac and pain)
Acetaminophen (pain and fever)
Ibuprofen (pain, inflammation)
Epinephrine (anaphylaxis)
Ketamine (severe pain and sedation)
Transexamic Acid (severe internal hemorrhage control)
Lidocaine 1% (anesthetic for wound cleaning)
Opthalmic antibiotic
Immodium (diarrhea), Bismuth Salicylate, Zofran (GI upset)
Nasal decongestant

What if a group member is unable make the ascent? All participants should understand that this is group trip – essentially a mini open enrollment expedition. We want to afford each participant the opportunity to reach the summit. However, if a person(s) is unable to continue it will be the guide’s decision as to how to proceed with regard to the rest of the group. Per our commercial use agreement with Baxter State Park our options are:

1. Entire group turns around. This is more likely if there is a single guide on the trip.
   
2. Client(s) is left in safe place for maximum of 90 minutes and group returns to descend together. This is only an option in reasonable weather and when close to summit and communication can be maintained.
   
3. Client(s) descends with second guide while remainder of group continues toward summit. No more than five clients should be with a single guide.
4. Client(s) returns on own to camp and MUST WAIT at camp until group returns. This should only be utilized if well below tree line, trail is easily followed and each party has communication option.
   
5. If a client decides at the campground that they don’t want to attempt the climb it will be the guide’s decision as to whether client should or should not  return to trailhead on their own.